Cacio e Pepe

• 200g spaghetti or tonnarelli
• 80g Pecorino Romano, very finely grated
• 2 tsp whole black peppercorns
• Salt

Cook the pasta in about 1.5 litres of lightly salted water (the pecorino is salty), stopping 2 minutes short of the packet time. Less water than usual means starchier water for the sauce.

Meanwhile, coarsely crush the peppercorns and toast them in a dry, wide frying pan until fragrant. Add a ladle of pasta water to stop them cooking.

Mash the pecorino with a few tablespoons of warm, not boiling, pasta water into a thick, smooth paste.

Move the pasta to the pepper pan with a splash more water and toss over medium heat until just al dente.

Take the pan off the heat and wait 30 seconds. Add the cheese paste and toss hard, adding pasta water a spoonful at a time, until creamy and glossy. Serve at once with more pepper.